BAFTA Costume Design Nominations Announced

Beauty and the Beast

Jacqueline Durran of 2012’s Anna Karenina looked straight to the Disney cartoon for inspiration. “Those costumes exist in people’s imaginations and all I wanted to do was to honor what they expect those costumes to be in a live action movie,” she told PEOPLE.

“We decided to take inspiration from there and enrich the world using historical details,” she says. “For instance how that works for Belle (played by Emma Watson) is Belle has the pockets hanging on the outside of her [blue] costume. The pockets are historical, people tied pockets around their waist, obviously we changed it a bit and put them on the outside and they became part of the kind of reinterpretation of Belle as an active heroine who does things and gets things done. The pockets act as a sort of toolbelt where she keeps all the things useful to her in her day to day life, those are the two elements we really looked for.”

“Because Emma is so interested in sustainability and fair trade, eco fabrics and eco fashion, we applied those criteria to making a costume from head to toe,” she says. “That [red] costume was made entirely from sustainable fabrics. We dyed it in vegetable dyes in our workroom, we had shoes made with eco leather and we did the whole thing from top to bottom to be as thorough as we could. People learned different skills in the work rooms to be able to do it, so they dyers learned to dye with strange vegetable dye. Sometimes it took two weeks to dye something because you’d have to leave it in there for that long to get a rich color, it really was a learning curve for all of us, I’d certainly never done that before.”

Darkest Hour

Image resultJoe Wright’s war drama stars Gary Oldman as the famous political figure through his early days as Prime Minister including a crucial moment against Adolf Hitler’s army at the beginning of World War II.

Oldman said that initially the hair and make-up artists pushed the likeness a little far at the beginning.”We went full-on Churchill,” he told Empire magazine. “But the more I resembled him. The weirder it looked. You’ve lost me. So we had to pull it back.”

This was again the work of Jacquelin Durran who worked with Wright on Anna Karenina. “If you suddenly made Churchill not look like Churchill, there’d be no point. And so much of Gary’s interpretation is looking like Churchill, we were doing a replication of Churchill as far as we could,” she told Rama’s creen. “And all the members of the parliament, we were looking to replicate what they’d look like and bring out the individuality in each of the costumes, each of the men, so you have a feeling of their characters. So that was part of my conversation with Joe, we wanted it to be as close to replicating life as possible but there are elements that are stylized for example the house of commons, everybody’s wearing black and white clothing, it was a stylization but that’s just something that made it look better in the movie, it was just tweaking it a bit. And I think with the palace as well, we chose to have a more neutral palette with some highlights of color popping up here and there, not really big colorful palette. And I think that was something that Joe said at the beginning, to keep it more neutral.”

I, Tonya

Image resultTonya Harding rises through the ranks of competitive figure skating only to find disgrace when her husband tries to wipe out her rival. “With Tonya, because she’s a tough person, she’s not afraid to voice her opinion and she does not particularly consider herself ultra-feminine, so the skating costumes were always pink and purple, and colors that were probably quite uncomfortable for her in real life,”  Jennifer Johnson told Deadline. “Then, she started making more money, and being able to afford her Louis Vuitton bag. She has Chanel earrings and a nice leather jacket and she’s definitely more sober in her color choices as the violence escalates.”

 

 

 

Phantom Thread

Image resultIn 1950’s post-war London, renowned dressmaker Reynolds Woodcock and his sister Cyril are at the center of British fashion. “[My work is] very specific to time and place,” designer Mark Bridges explains to Variety. “There are references [to both], but we tried to do Reynolds more like his contemporaries. We went to the Victoria and Albert Museum and examined their work to get a flavor of London at that time.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Shape of Water

Image resultGuillermo Del Torro returns! Elisa is a mute, isolated woman who works as a cleaning lady in a hidden, high-security government laboratory in 1962 Baltimore. Her life changes forever when she discovers the lab’s classified secret – a mysterious, scaled creature from South America that lives in a water tank. Costume designer Luis Sequeira needed to make sure those warm tones would be an unwelcoming contrast to the coolish colors of Elisa’s water-themed world. “We viewed that orange as an ugly ‘60s look [the film is set in 1962] and that’s how I’d dress the men as well,” said Sequeira. “We thought of the somewhat monochromatic color palette in terms of these shifts and contrasts between the worlds.”

 

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